fashion

RUNWAY: YANG LI MAKES PARIS DEBUT FOR MADE

March 4, 2013 / Sarah Hay

This is the first time for Yang Li to present in Paris, and he so with MADE fashion week. Choosing a highly creative concept for the show, viewers could peer into the backstage area where models emerged onto the runway, all filmed and projected onto big screens. Yang Li, who is 25, studied at Central Saint Martins and was born in Beijing spoke to us between shows…..

What are some of the textures you used, these days it’s almost impossible for journalists to assume they know what a material is because everything has gone so techno. - Well we started by researching elegance, what is the new elegance? So we took napa leather, bouclé, traditional textures and corrupted them a little bit. We take something iconic and put it out of context because for me, it’s important that the clothes should be not like recorded music but like live music, a bit rough. For me luxury should be a bit rough also. We see so many clean and smooth lines but if something is off-set it’s more interesting to me.

OK so what is double-face or double-bonded, you work with it a lot.. - It’s a traditional construction normally used by Hermès and couture. A fabric that’s fused together with a tiny thread and it has to be completely made by hand. The inside and outside are the same and there are no seams.

What are some of the other fabrics? - Angora al paca that we coated with a resin pigment on top. All the shoes are hand-made with a triple sole.

So this is like high-end punk or Goth? - Yes, all the materials are very luxurious, like a big old house with a young attitude. Like bouclé which is a material used a lot like Chanel, we made something very punk out of it.

And you’re based in London? - Studio is in London, the production is in Italy and we show in Paris, it’s like the Bermuda triangle of fashion.

Why dark colours? Why a dark emotion? - Hmm it’s a bit Gothic or grungey but with high-end construction which are things that aren’t often coupled but this creates something new for me.

Tell us about the concept of this show, for readers the presentation is pretty stunning where the audience can see the back room where the models are being dressed and styled before walking out into the second salon to the waiting cameras… - Again, like music, it’s something live and recorded. You can see us working, see the roughness. When the models walk out it transcends what is backstage, what is preparation and what is the show.

Photography by Leandro Justen/BFANYC.com

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