Now into her 10th season, Danish designer Louise Amstrup showed at NYFW for the first time with her MADE presentation last night. Taking inspiration from the 2004 documentary Plagues and Pleasures of the Salon Sea (the John Waters narrated film about a ghost town in the Californian desert which was tipped to be the next Palm Spring, until ever-increasing salt levels gave the area an eternal odour of decaying fish), there was a sense of something freakish and ‘not quite right’ about each of the feminine looks on show.
From the outsized hats by Noel Stewart, to pretty digital prints based on renderings of shady underwater creatures like the nudibranch mollusc, all was not quite what it seemed. Crisp, feminine tailoring was given a sporty edge with the use of neoprene (in a highly commercial pea coat), net, white patent and silk twill bonded with organza. Meanwhile, one statement skirt was made by stitching hundreds of hand-dyed organza flowers onto netted fabric - over 850 hours of work, and a nod to Amstrup’s interest in haute couture.
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